Where is volvo 940 fuel pump

Hi I can't say all later 's 95 onwards have only the in tank pump but the one I used as a doner car had. It wasn't one that had been bodged or anything either as there wasn't a hole in the floor for the wiring. I think the entire range changed in to 1 pump in the tank. Looking at parts listings turbo and non turbo have always had different fuel pumps regardless of there being 1 or 2, something to do with flow rates I think.

As I said before have a look under the car and you can see if there is a pump and filter. I think the part number is but check with Volvo to be sure in case I have made a mistake or Volvo have changed something. The part number I have given is for the pump only but looking at the numbers they list a different number for the complete in tank unit.

You might be able to get a quality fuel pump from an aftermarket supplier for less money although if you have the single pump make sure it's the correct one. It's a '98 BFK. Yes, I can confirm this too. The later 's have only ONE pump, and it's in the fuel tank attached to the sender unit.

I know this, because mine has failed, and I need to replace it!! As the breakdown guy showed me If the car won't start, get under it and give the tank a good kick whilst someone else turns the ignition. Not a permanent fix, but it will let you use the car, and get you home until you have time to fix it. What a stupid design. Whatever was wrong with having one pump under the car, and simply changing it when it failed.

So called 'progress' again. I've never seen one -. Thread Tools. All times are GMT The time now is AM. User Name. Remember Me? Replacement Fuel Pump Question Car? Find More Posts by Djw21a. Find More Posts by JohnLane. He's correct in my opinion, find a bosch pump if you can. Find More Posts by Redwood Chair. Quote: Originally Posted by cleanflametrap I find intriguing these remarks on this board about Bosch pumps in the tank. Find More Posts by Canuckvolvo. Quote: Originally Posted by Canuckvolvo He's not talking about the in tank pump though The main pump under the car is the high pressure pump.

Find More Posts by coalminer. Quote: Originally Posted by cleanflametrap Anyone have a photo of a Bosch pump for in-tank use in our cars? Find More Posts by 84B23F. Ah, Allota Fagina, missed that bit.

Nothin but witches and flyin monkeys. Find More Posts by Mad Adder. Quote: Originally Posted by Mad Adder Not sure if you are agreeing with my pump or not, but works fine on Regina and turbo applications. Quote: Originally Posted by cleanflametrap Bosch pump for in-tank use in our cars? Posting Rules. Instead, replace it with SAE 30R9 fuel injection hose, safely routed and secured. The fuel return line has a steel spring clamp see previous photo above. To remove this intact, try adjustable water pump pliers or long, angled needle nose pliers.

Tap the plastic lock ring loose. The threads are huge, so about two turns and it is off. Don't pull on the tubes that go through the sender's top. Tap gently against the sender unit's top lip. Using steel on old plastic requires that you go slowly.

The send unit will back out. Disconnect the sender wiring harness from the connector in the left side wheel well, then cut the zip ties holding the wire to the fill tube.

Fish this harness out through the grommet hole near the fuel sender unit. There may be a wiring harness holder way up on the left under the deck: using a screwdriver, release the lock and pull the wires free. Now the unit can be withdrawn from the tank. Use a flashlight to see what is going on inside. Regina Pump: Notice the 90 degree CCW turn to bring it out of the tank at the right rear of the access hole.

In front of the send unit, there is a white plastic "baffle". It prevents fuel "slosh" to keep the fuel gauge needle as stable as possible during turns, or sharp stops, etc.

The fuel send unit has to be maneuvered around this baffle. By turning the unit counter-clockwise to your left, as you face the front of the car , to the 10 o'clock position, you move the barrel around the corner of the fuel tank baffle. At the same time as you move it, pull upwards and - as much as possible - tilt the top of the send unit towards the back of the car. This has the effect of lifting the end of the barrel so that it above the baffle.

Once the barrel is clear of the baffle, you should be able to lift the unit out of the tank. Pull it clear carefully. The Regina unit doesn't seem quite as fragile as I remember tank pumps on Bosch systems.

It will do no harm sitting on the tank's bottom. The large plastic lock ring is made of a polymer that shrinks over time, so if you are not planning to complete the job within about half a day, reinstall it to keep its shape or buy a new one. You can also soak it in hot water to expand it before installing. Two views of the Regina sending unit.

Return line, feed line, and vent L-R can be seen joining the cap. The entire bottom end is spring loaded to ensure it meets the bottom of the tank, empty or full, cold or warm. Turned over, the gauge sending unit in its sliding housing is rightmost.

The double dished stamping on the Regina pump covers a small accumulator to smooth pump pulses not used on Bosch :. Closeup of the tank seal. The inner edge is bifurcated to give what appears to be an elastic seal to the tank port's ID when the pressure inside exceeds atmospheric:. Soldering the leads onto the new pump Note: the Volvo pump kits come with new crimp-on leads, but soldering them is a good idea :.

Reassemble the pump and attach the filter sock at the bottom. Insert the top of the spring first, then pop the bottom in place. Make sure the little rubber button on the bottom of the spring is in place see photo :. Electricals: Inspect the wiring harness.

The insulation can chafe where it makes a 90 degree bend out of the sender unit top. If it is worn, apply liquid electrical tape to re-insulate. If your wiring harness securing spring rusted away, re-secure the wiring to the top of the sender using a big gob of silicone to act as a strain relief. Allow this to cure thoroughly before reinstalling else you risk jerking the wiring loose. Corrosion: If you have the metal sending unit top, it will invariably be corroded. De-rust and treat with POR to prevent future rusting.

If your sending unit top is plastic, the metal fuel lines going through it will be rusted. Remove as much as you can, sand smooth, and treat the exposed areas with POR Rust can creep down between the metal and plastic, swell, and crack the plastic sending unit top. De-rust to the extent you can and reinforce the joint between the tube and the plastic sender top with epoxy if this is the case.

Now is a good time to replace all the hose clamps with new units. Breeze Clamps make an all-stainless clamp. Gasket: Now is a good time to replace the fuel tank gasket if necessary. Lube the gasket surfaces - and the tank opening's inner surface - with vaseline. Do NOT lube the outer screw threads on the tank outlet or the plastic nut so as to not overtighten it on reinstallation. Compressing the Sender Unit: The sender unit is spring loaded and collapses in itself about inches as it rides up and down like a telescope within the larger part of the unit.

Install it by collapsing using a string or a fishing line in order to install more easily. You can easily do this by looping the line over the pump clip on the barrel and feeding both ends of the loop up through the return line in the faceplate. Pull the barrel back by hand as far as it goes, pull the string tight and tie to a nearby neck or around a rod placed over the return line nipple.

Once the sending unit is set in the tank you untie the string and pull one end out to remove the loop, letting the spring release properly into position. For the Bosch unit: use a long string, run it under the bottom of the pump through the notches, then up and out.